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For the Karen Walker show, makeup artist Maxine Leonard created a youthful, charmingly girlish look with rosy cheeks and lips as the main focal points. In order to make this look work, the rest of the makeup must be applied very lightly: no dramatic eye shadow, no heavy eye liner; instead, focus on various shades of beige and brown to match the color of the skin.
After a maximum coverage foundation, Maxine applied mascara and used a pencil to fill in the eyebrows. Maxine tells us that the freshest layer of makeup will be the one people notice the most, so she waits until the last minute to apply the blush and lipstick.
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Lisa Butler told us that her main inspiration for any of her makeup styling is the designer’s vision with the clothing line; she says, “When I see the line of clothes during the testings, the makeup almost creates itself in my mind… It’s a joy to watch everything come to life and see how the makeup actually enhances the look of the garments.”
This season's Miss Sixty line incorporates a vibrant violet color, so Lisa and her team created a more powerful, contemporary version of the classic smoky eye using a vivid purple as the hallmark. To achieve the look, she started with a smoky pencil around the lashes as a foundational highlighter. For the eye shadow, she used a deep purple with a golden shimmer for that extra pop under the runway lights. This updated smoky eye fit perfectly with the “rocker girl” style of Miss Sixty.
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The definite highlight of the Devi Kroell show was its sponsor, Temptu, an airbrushing company. The airbrushing helped to create the sophisticated, elegant, and finished look that Lisa Butler envisioned.
The first steps when working with airbrushing are to match the skin tone and apply an even coat of the silicon-based formula to the entire face. The airbrushing basically serves as a foundation, to make the skin appear absolutely flawless; then it’s Lisa’s job to polish the look with makeup.
Lisa’s secrets for this look center around the clean and defined brows, a deep taupe liner for the eyes, and a natural cheek to compliment the airbrushing.
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Tommy Hilfiger’s clothing lines tend to focus on clean-cut American fashion. To accentuate this year’s line at Fashion Week, Lisa Butler and her team of makeup stylists created a unique look inspired by the late 70s golden glam of a lower Manhattan fashionista.
To achieve the look, Lisa first focused on giving a full coverage of sheer foundation. She explains, “As a makeup artist, the face is my canvas… it must be cared for even down to the smallest underpinnings. This sheer coverage provides a light base for the rest of the look.”
She then used a refined golden bronze for the blush and mineralized powder for highlighting. The mineralized powder gives the look an extra pop on the catwalk.
For the eyes, Lisa begins by curling the lashes and then tracing a gold pencil under the lower lashes. She then applies a gold furdel (sheer) powder to the eyelid and socket, applying it heavier toward the outer half of the lid. The eyes are finished with mascara and the eyebrows are darkened with a pencil.
The lips get a thin layer of lip conditioner topped off with a fun lip balm.
Male models also walked in the Tommy Hilfiger show. When I asked Lisa about the makeup inspiration for them, she laughed and said, “Oh, the makeup for the male models is mainly used for grooming, to cover up spots. Basically we want their skin to look as smooth as the girls’ complexions without the added drama of color and shimmer.”
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